Roasted Chestnuts in Lisbon: A Tradition That Warms the City

From the end of September, the streets of Lisbon change: small charcoal ovens appear on the corners, filling the air with smoke and the sweet smell of roasted chestnuts.

Chestnuts have been eaten in Portugal since the Middle Ages, long before the potato reached Europe. In Lisbon, street vendors became common in the 19th century, and the image of the vendor with a barrel-shaped oven has hardly changed since then.

The tradition is especially linked to St. Martin’s Day (São Martinho, November 11th), when chestnuts are eaten together with new wine or jeropiga. But in Lisbon you will find them from late September until the cold winter months.

You’ll spot the vendors in busy areas like Rossio, Baixa, Chiado, Avenida da Liberdade, Saldanha, and near metro stations or shopping streets. A paper cone usually comes with 12 hot chestnuts for a few euros.

Eating roasted chestnuts in Lisbon is more than a snack. It’s part of the city’s autumn atmosphere.