Autumn has arrived, and although Lisbon can still have warm days, soon you will start noticing one of my favourite things about this time of year.
The smell of roasted chestnuts in the streets.
As the weather gets cooler, small chestnut carts start appearing around busy areas of Lisbon, filling the streets with smoke and the smell of roasted chestnuts.
Chestnuts have been eaten in Portugal for centuries and were an important food long before potatoes became common.
Today, they are strongly connected with autumn and especially with São Martinho, celebrated on 11 November.
🌰 WHERE TO FIND THEM
During autumn and winter, you can usually find chestnut sellers around Rossio, Baixa, Chiado, Avenida da Liberdade, Saldanha and other busy parts of the city.
They are traditionally served in a paper cone, usually in portions of 12.
Recent prices have been around €3 to €3.50 for a dozen, although this can vary.
SÃO MARTINHO
On 11 November, it is traditional in Portugal to eat roasted chestnuts and drink new wine, água-pé or jeropiga.
You may also hear the Portuguese saying:
“É dia de São Martinho, comem-se castanhas e prova-se o vinho.”
For me, a paper cone of hot chestnuts on a cool Lisbon afternoon is one of the nicest simple pleasures of autumn.
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