There is always a debate about the best pastel de nata in Lisbon, and two names usually come up: Pastéis de Belém and Manteigaria.
Pastéis de Belém are the historic ones.
After Portugal's monasteries were closed in 1834, someone from the Jerónimos Monastery started selling these pastries in a nearby shop. In 1837, Pastéis de Belém began producing them using the old monastery recipe, which is still kept secret today.
Manteigaria has a different story.
Its first shop opened in Chiado, in the former headquarters of Manteigaria União, an old butter cooperative. The original Art Nouveau façade and name were kept, and you can watch the pastéis being made behind the counter.
Since then, Manteigaria has expanded well beyond Lisbon. Today you can find it in Porto and Braga, but also in cities such as Paris, Madrid, Bordeaux, Macau and Hong Kong.
In recent years, I have noticed more and more people choosing Manteigaria when this debate comes up.
And if you have already tried Pastéis de Belém or Manteigaria, go into a good neighbourhood pastelaria and order something different.
Portuguese pastry goes far beyond the pastel de nata, and having a coffee and a cake in a simple local pastelaria can become one of those small experiences you remember from your trip.
🇵🇹 Planning a trip to Lisbon, Porto or the Algarve?
All my digital travel guides include several Google Maps lists organised by category, with places already selected and saved for you.
In the Lisbon Guide, you will also find a list of cafés and pastry shops worth trying.
Spend less time searching and more time enjoying Portugal.
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