There is a popular saying in Portugal that we have 365 ways to cook bacalhau (salt cod), one for every day of the year. Whether anyone has ever counted them or not, the saying makes sense. Bacalhau is part of everyday Portuguese food, and Bacalhau à Brás is probably one of the best-known ways to eat it.
The dish is believed to have originated in Bairro Alto, where a tavern owner called Brás created a simple combination of shredded salt cod, onion, thin fried potatoes and eggs. It is usually finished with parsley and black olives.
The ingredients are simple, but getting the texture right is important. A good Bacalhau à Brás should be creamy and soft, with the egg still slightly loose, enough cod to give the dish flavour and potatoes that have not completely disappeared into the mixture. When it is overcooked, it quickly becomes dry and heavy.
It is one of those Portuguese dishes that does not look particularly impressive on the plate, but when it is well made, it is incredibly comforting.
If you want to try it in Lisbon, I would keep these four places on your list: Varina da Madragoa, Laurentina, O Rei do Bacalhau, Cacué in Picoas and Restaurante Ideal in Anjos. The last one is more of a neighbourhood restaurant where dishes can change, so it is worth checking before making a special trip.
If this is your first time in Portugal, Bacalhau à Brás is definitely one of the traditional dishes I would try.
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